DAY 1: Las Minas (the mines)
Because of the mines and incalculable wealth in Potosí, the mines have been everything to Bolivia. They were considered so important to Bolivia that instead of trying to diversify their resources and take advantage of the natural petroleum, vineyards and rubber forests, Bolivia let those areas fall to the surrounding countries. And, well it didn't turn out too well for Bolivia in the end. The history of the mines in Bolivia is long and tumultuous... with millions dead and about 800 children working in them today. It's quite a sad story, but an important story to understand how Bolivia came to be what it is today. Outside of a few blocks in the center of town, Potosí is very poor. Driving to the mines was an interesting experience because you really do see everything. And don't get me wrong, it was a lot of fun to put on the miner's outfits from boots to helmets, but it was important to keep in mind that there are people that do this every day, and will continue to do it every day of their (most likely) short lives. After we donned our outfits we headed up to the mines and I was ready. I was the one trying to comfort one of my peers that is severely claustrophobic and just kept up a strong front and I was fine in the mines, at first. But the combination of being very tall for the mines and thus having to continually bend over to get through small openings, having to walk quite quickly at such a high altitude to keep up with the guide and the whole 'slight asthma' thing made it so I couldn't fully breathe in the mines and well, I didn't finish the tour. But I entered, and I definitely saw what it would be like to work there and I didn't like it. Everything is dark and the tunnels are so small. You also have to watch out for the mining carts because they don't have breaks, so if you're not off the tracks, holding onto the walls for dear life who knows what you would lose... The mine we entered in Cerro Rico was fully functioning. We met miners, brought them small gifts of coca and water and watched them work.
In the mines it is a completely different world. The world is dark and you never know what could happen. For that reason (and a few others) the miners pay their respects to "El Tío." El Tío is the 'god' of the mines. Originally the Spanish used El Tío to convince the indigenous people to work harder, it was someone to be feared. So, the image of Tío is that of the devil -- with horns, a tail, red skin and piercing eyes, but the miners do not worship the devil. Tío is very different from the devil, he only controls the mines. If you do not smoke cigarettes with him, give him coca or alcohol or respect his power, you will perish in the mines. He is the protector of the mines and the miners, but also the one that can take everything away from you in a rock slide, explosion or fatal fall. Because I didn't go all the way into the mine, I didn't get to see the huge Tío of Cerro Rico... but I did get to see one near the entrance. He had a cigarette in his mouth, coca leaves all around him and the small chamber he was in reeked of alcohol. The miners put coca on his shoulders, arms, legs and hands to help to make them stronger so they can carry the minerals out of the mine. Tío also has a very prominent erection which the miners pay respect to so that more miners will be born and also so the veins of Cerro Rico will continue to be filled with silver and other minerals. El Tío is very important to the miners, but once they leave the mines many attend church every Sunday with their families and worship God. It is only in the darkness that Tío has power. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of Tío, but I do have some of us in our miners' outfits!!
Since I didn't spend the hour and a half+ in the mines, I had some serious time to kill... so I ended up talking to two little boys who were playing near the entrance to the mines. Their names were David and Alejandro and their mothers work around the mines and I think their fathers, or uncles, or some male relative work in the mines themselves. (Women are forbidden from entering the mines as they might distract El Tío!) Anyway, when everyone came back from the mine adventure my friend Gary created a game for the two boys to play and the four of us played for about 20 minutes! He set up 'targets' for the boys to hit with rocks using the stuff around us -- mostly trash. It made the boys so happy and I know I had fun too! As we were leaving the boys came around with a box of rocks and minerals that they told me were not worth anything, but were still asking for a little money. I of course obliged, having cultivated a bit of relationship with them. I gave them 10 bolivianos and they let me take one of each (I was only supposed to get 2 & I got 6!) It was also interesting when I was asking which rock was which and they were able to answer me in English! They might not be attending school and might not have the future that every little boy wants, but they're learning English by interacting with the tourists which I think can be more helpful than other skills especially in the tourism sector of Potosí. --Not saying that's all they will ever do or that English is the best language to learn, but especially in a city like Potosí that depends so heavily on tourism, learning English could be the difference between a job inside or outside the mines.
After such a long day we all went our separate ways for dinner. We found a restaurant not too far from the hotel and got to try the Potsina beer. I'm not a beer connoisseur, but I quite liked it! Also the restaurant (I guess to save space) had one bathroom with one female and one male stall inside that shared a sink... it made for some awkward encounters. I was waiting for the bathroom and a man walked in, but seeing me was confused, walked back out, looked at the door, looked at me and I said it's for both of us and he came in. Upon seeing him I immediately guessed he was from the UK, and well I was right. We ended up chatting for a bit while we waited for our stalls (which really was quite awkward, but do as the Bolivians do, right!?) and it turns out he's from Dublin and was on holiday with his friends for a few weeks. He also knew the area where my grandparents live in Wales relatively well as his sister in law was from Snowdonia! Small world, eh?! :)
 |
| Emily, Leena, Kati & I ready for the mines! (Photo courtesy of Kai Neander) |
 |
| The landscape |
Since I didn't spend the hour and a half+ in the mines, I had some serious time to kill... so I ended up talking to two little boys who were playing near the entrance to the mines. Their names were David and Alejandro and their mothers work around the mines and I think their fathers, or uncles, or some male relative work in the mines themselves. (Women are forbidden from entering the mines as they might distract El Tío!) Anyway, when everyone came back from the mine adventure my friend Gary created a game for the two boys to play and the four of us played for about 20 minutes! He set up 'targets' for the boys to hit with rocks using the stuff around us -- mostly trash. It made the boys so happy and I know I had fun too! As we were leaving the boys came around with a box of rocks and minerals that they told me were not worth anything, but were still asking for a little money. I of course obliged, having cultivated a bit of relationship with them. I gave them 10 bolivianos and they let me take one of each (I was only supposed to get 2 & I got 6!) It was also interesting when I was asking which rock was which and they were able to answer me in English! They might not be attending school and might not have the future that every little boy wants, but they're learning English by interacting with the tourists which I think can be more helpful than other skills especially in the tourism sector of Potosí. --Not saying that's all they will ever do or that English is the best language to learn, but especially in a city like Potosí that depends so heavily on tourism, learning English could be the difference between a job inside or outside the mines.
 |
| Playtime! |
DAY 1 - Part 2: Wayna Pacha (After school program for miner's children)
After the mines, lunch and a short rest we headed to a local organization called Wayna Pacha that functions as a before and after school program for miner's children. The children range in age from a few months to 16 or 17. The program runs solely from the help of financiers and foreign companies and as of now, may have to close in a few years to do a lack of funding... but hopefully they can work it out so they will not have to close, as they really are doing great things for the kids! They have a great facility that allows the children to experience music, art, sports and many other things that they may not have access to in school. The goal of the organization is to help the kids fully realize their potential as students and this way, hopefully they will not have to work in the mines. I spent my time playing with two little girls who were 6 and 8. We played a game sort of like hopscotch but it was called "Chipa Chipa" (I think...) Anyway, the goal of the game was to toss your rock through each of the quadrants of the board using your feet/knees/eyes... really I just did what they told me but it was fun! They were absolutely adorable and all of the children at Wayna Pacha were delighted that we visited (even the oldest ones!!)
 |
| Kai, Kati & Leen playing with the kids! |
 |
| The group with the director of Wayna Pacha |
After such a long day we all went our separate ways for dinner. We found a restaurant not too far from the hotel and got to try the Potsina beer. I'm not a beer connoisseur, but I quite liked it! Also the restaurant (I guess to save space) had one bathroom with one female and one male stall inside that shared a sink... it made for some awkward encounters. I was waiting for the bathroom and a man walked in, but seeing me was confused, walked back out, looked at the door, looked at me and I said it's for both of us and he came in. Upon seeing him I immediately guessed he was from the UK, and well I was right. We ended up chatting for a bit while we waited for our stalls (which really was quite awkward, but do as the Bolivians do, right!?) and it turns out he's from Dublin and was on holiday with his friends for a few weeks. He also knew the area where my grandparents live in Wales relatively well as his sister in law was from Snowdonia! Small world, eh?! :)
All in all, day one in Potosí was full of many ups and downs: seeing the mines and the poverty, playing with the children who didn't seem to have a care in the world yet when prompted you discover they don't have fathers because they have perished in the mines or that just about every male relative works in the mines... it's such a different perspective and hard to swallow because really, there isn't much we can do. It's the way things are, and asking the government to create child labor laws or demanding they close the mines won't help anyone. Things won't change overnight and in all honesty, Potosí hasn't changed much since the 1500s, it still revolves almost completely around Cerro Rico. The only difference today is that aside from miners and their families, Potosí is also full of foreign tourists and tour guides.
To a rough day, that was improved ten-fold by the children of Potosí,
Carly
No comments:
Post a Comment